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All you need to know about setting stones

Jewellery 03/02/2025
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The ancient history of setting

Setting precious stones is an ancient practice, dating back to Antiquity, when craftsmen were already trying to attach gems to crowns and jewellery. From the Middle Ages onwards, the closed setting appeared, offering extra protection to the stones. During the Renaissance, the claw setting revolutionised jewellery, allowing the stones to catch more light and intensify their brilliance. The Victorian era saw the emergence of the pavé setting, where small stones were set so tightly that they formed a smooth, sparkling surface.

With modern technological advances, jewellers can now create more precise and complex designs, while respecting traditional techniques. Setting has thus become a veritable art, combining innovation and heritage to enhance precious stones with boldness and creativity.

The different setting

There are several styles of setting, each offering unique advantages in terms of both aesthetics and function. Whether to ensure the security of the stone or to create distinctive visual effects, each type of setting meets specific needs and can be adapted to different jewellery designs.

The claw setting

The claw setting is a popular and effective method of holding precious stones in place, often used for diamonds.  At Lepage, this involves fixing the stone with three metal claws from one to six, which keep it slightly elevated, allowing light to enter beneath the gem. This maximum exposure to light enhances the brilliance and brilliance of the stone. The claw setting is appreciated for its ability to secure the stone firmly while offering a wide variety of designs. At Lepage, discover claw-set jewellery, such as this Jackie solitaire in rose gold and diamonds.

Jackie solitaire in rose gold and diamonds

The closed setting

The closed setting is a traditional setting technique in which the metal completely surrounds the stone, ensuring a strong and secure hold. Unlike other types of setting, such as the claw setting, where the stone is held in place by visible claws, the closed setting creates a smooth, uniform metal border that completely surrounds the stone, protecting it on all sides. The metal is generally folded over the edges of the stone, guaranteeing its stability without the risk of it becoming dislodged. At Lepage, let yourself be seduced by the Capucine wedding ring in white gold and diamonds with a closed setting pearl finish.

Capucine wedding ring in white gold and diamonds

The tension setting

The tension setting is a setting technique in which the stone is held in place solely by the pressure exerted by the metal around it. Unlike traditional settings, this creates a floating effect for the stone. It enhances the gem in a modern, uncluttered way, while guaranteeing a secure setting. Lepage's Audacieuse solitaire in diamonds and white gold, mounted in a tension setting, embodies the elegance and modernity of this setting.

Audacieuse solitaire in diamonds and white gold

The rail setting

The rail setting is a modern setting technique in which the stones are placed in a groove delimited by two parallel metal rails. This method holds the stones side by side, creating a continuous, linear effect. This technique protects the sides of the stones, reducing the risk of impact or snagging. The rail setting is appreciated for its ability to create a perfect alignment of stones, bringing an elegant and sophisticated look to jewellery.

Lepage offers the Intrépide wedding ring in gold and diamonds, which perfectly embodies the finesse of the rail setting.

Intrépide wedding ring in gold and diamonds

The crimp setting

The crimp setting is a technique that involves placing a metal wire between two stones, exerting lateral pressure to hold them in place. The flange setting provides a secure hold while allowing the stone to remain firmly in place, with no risk of displacement. This setting is appreciated for its ability to create a discreet yet solid hold, often used for jewellery where a minimalist structure is desired, while guaranteeing maximum security for the stones.

The Audacieuse wedding ring from Lepage illustrates the exacting standards and elegance of the bridle setting. 

The Audacieuse wedding ring in white gold and diamond
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